July 17

Bike ride to beach on broke-down Soviet clunkers
One speed up and down steep hills
Breathing in exhaust smoke
Beautiful little beach
With groups of college students in town to sit exams
Playing drinking games and volleyball and soccer
At least the boys.
The girls sat by watching
The girls here go into the sea in shorts and T-shirts
No bathing suits for them or their moms.
I put on my rash guard to add a little modesty to my bikini
The water was warm and lovely.
Steamy hot ride back to town
Under a brutal sun
Thinking about how much you miss when you can’t read the signs.
What’s that way?
Restaurant, café, or bar?
Hospital, school?
Right, left or straight ahead?
What’s that plaque for?
What’s going on in those tents set up on the big boulevard?
What kinds of food are they selling?
Why is the door locked? When will they open?
Can I drink this, or will it make me sick?
Visited a cool Cham ruin this morning
With spectacular photo ops
But our camera is broken.
Ate yogurt w/tiny pieces of different fruits and chipped ice, served with a straw and a spoon
Ate dinner overlooking the sea
But
Had to ask to have the muzak turned down
So we could hear the waves lapping the rocks below us.
Muzak as ubiquitous here as fish sauce
Used to love fish sauce until a couple of days ago
Never could stand muzak
Though I can’t help singing along to Bridge Over Troubled Water
One part original song, one part La Vache Qui Rit cheese.

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